Big Trad Climbing Fall

Robbie Phillips takes a whip on the trad route The Burren E7 6c in a clip by Ryan Balharry.

Phillips said, "Unless you’ve tried onsight trad climbing, it’s hard to appreciate just how intense it can be. Flashing a trad route isn’t quite the same — once you know the gear or the sequence, the element of the unknown disappears. And that unknown is what makes onsighting so special (and spicy!).

"For years I felt comfortable onsighting E5s and the odd E6, but E7s mostly felt out of my comfort zone (unless they were sporty or really well protected). This past year, I decided to fully commit. I stopped headpointing and even avoided abseil inspections to keep the experience as pure as possible. And now? I reckon onsight trad might be the hardest — and most rewarding — style of climbing out there.

"It’s not just physical. It’s technical. It’s bold. It’s mentally full-on. You’re climbing at your limit, assessing gear on the fly, deciphering moves, managing fear, and trying to keep a cool head while hanging in uncomfortable positions. It’s like spinning plates in a hurricane. I’ve failed more this year than ever before trying to onsight E7s… but I’ve also had more unforgettable moments. There’s something raw and real about stepping into the unknown and giving it everything you’ve got.

"That’s why, for me, onsighting is the coolest form of climbing. Curious to hear your thoughts."

The Fall