Midnight Lightning: The Spark That Changed Bouldering Forever
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Midnight Lightning, the 7.62-metre (25-foot) granite testpiece on Yosemite’s Columbia Boulder, stands as one of the most iconic climbs in the world. First climbed in May 1978 by American climber Ron Kauk, the route was graded at V8 (7B/7B+), making it the first of its grade in North America and only the second in the world.
Even decades later, this problem remains a benchmark for strength, technique, and style, representing not just a climb but a defining moment in the evolution of bouldering as an independent sport.
The story of Midnight Lightning began with bouldering pioneer John “Yabo” Yablonski, who discovered the line in early 1978 while exploring Camp 4. Excited by the challenge, he showed it to fellow climbers Ron Kauk and John Bachar, both already legends in Yosemite’s climbing scene.
The pair initially laughed off Yabo’s claim that the route was possible, joking that it had as much chance of being climbed as lightning striking at midnight—a jest that inspired the climb’s now-famous name. Bachar drew a chalk lightning bolt on the rock, a symbol that would later become one of climbing’s most enduring emblems.
After weeks of effort, Kauk finally succeeded in surmounting the problem’s notorious mantle move in May 1978, with Bachar making the second ascent shortly afterward. Their achievements ushered in a new era for climbing, pushing physical limits and redefining what could be done without ropes or protection.
For five years, no one else could repeat their feat. When climbers like Skip Guerin, Kurt Smith, and Jerry Moffatt eventually followed in the 1980s, Midnight Lightning had already gained mythical status. The lightning bolt—repeatedly erased and redrawn by rangers and climbers alike—became a symbol of the challenge’s legacy.
The climb’s influence continues to echo through generations. Lynn Hill made the first female ascent in 1998, followed by Lisa Rands in 2001 and a new wave of strong women in the years that followed. In 2002, Kauk’s son Lonnie made his own ascent, marking a powerful family legacy in Yosemite’s climbing history.
Recognized by the American Alpine Club as Kauk’s most iconic achievement, Midnight Lightning remains more than just a route—it is a rite of passage. For many, standing beneath its granite face in Camp 4 is to stand at the birthplace of modern bouldering, where a lightning bolt once struck and forever changed the sport.
60-year-old Bud Green just sent it, watch the video below.