Luca Bana Makes First Ascent of The Master 5.15a/b

Luca Bana, with three 9a+’ under his belt, has made the first ascent of The Master 5.15a/b in Cornalba. Here's what he said about the climb:

9a+/b Yess! The day I'd been waiting for quite some time has finally arrived! Bolted it back in November 2023, when I was looking for a new challenge on the magical ledge, I’d been dreaming of this line ever since. A journey of up and downs, falling with numb fingertips in the freezing wind, facing tough conditions and struggling to find the right day. An intense vertical chapter lasted two seasons. I'm glad it's finally done! Thank you to everyone who believed in me and shared this beautiful journey along the way.

Clear skies and crisp air: conditions look perfect. After a solid first go, I find myself back on the ground, looking up once more. I’m satisfied with matching my previous high point, but I know it's still not enough if I want to have a chance.

Two full hours of rest, temps are way colder but I'm ready to try again. This time, I climb smoothly through all the hard middle section, breathing on almost every move. Short, sharp shakes — and I launch into the upper crux. 

From below, someone shouts “Come on, you’ve got it!” — as I stick the hold I’d never reached before. Almost in disbelief, I keep going, aware the route isn't over yet. My forearms are about to give out on the very last moves, but the tiny spark of energy left in me is just enough to grab the top hold and clip the chains — the same ones I placed back in November 2023 when, looking for my next challenge, I bolted the route.

For sure, it's my most difficult ascent to date — 9a+ hard is what it felt like to me, hence the slash grade. But let's see what others will say! Sooner or later I'll be back for the longer and slightly harder version starting from Goldrake.