Leo Bøe Makes First Ascent of 5.15a in Norway
Earlier this year, Leo Bøe made the first ascent of Hafgúfa 5.15a in Norway. "So inspired by this rock climb and I can’t wait to see other people on it!”
Leo said, "This project was discovered by Elliot Ashe on the Island named Havsteinen, rougly 15 minutes by boat from the nearest harbor in Flatanger. The owner of the Island was kind enough to let me bolt the line and what followed was months off effort to send what would become Norways hardest first ascent!"
About the first ascent, Leo said: The story of Hafgúfa started last year when we explored islands surrounding Flatanger. We found many promising walls, caves, boulders, but this line stood out as the most impressive one. The roof had obvious features shaped for climbing and it looked exactly like the kind of project I had been searching for.
This summer we came back with the drill and it was easy to bolt with a tall latter. On the same day I started trying the moves which felt bouldery and purely physical. It was obvious that the route would turn into something close to my limit. After days of running back and fourth with the small boat I had all the beta sorted for the route that mainly breaks down into 3 hard boulder problems stacked.
Here is the breakdown:
• 7C+ / 8A - Physical on small edges combined with a toe hook and then a small jump at the end
• No rest
• 8A / 8A+ On powerful undercuts into a pogo dyno jump into a one handed jug!
• Good nohands rest in double kneebar
• 7C+ Endurance boulder with lots of body tension.
• Good rest (left kneebars)
• 8a route
• Drop-off on the ledge to finish
After 14 sessions I had fallen a couple times on the dyno. If I stuck the move I would have a high chance of sending. Somehow after taking some days off and travelling to Lofoten with Johanna, the crew had built a massive platform with tonns of rock beneath the first two boulder problems. It was now possible to climb the whole start (crux) as a boulder and so I started trying the route as a mix between two styles.
We had around 12 pads and on my 2nd burn I stuck the dyno for the first time! From there Johanna passed me the rope whilst I was in the double kneebar rest and I clipped it to my harness with a carabiner. I was nervous as it was the first time trying this method, but the practice had payed off and I stuck the final 7C+ boulder. In the last few meters of climbing along the lip of the roof I was in the golden hour light and it felt special. I got a rush of joy, relief and satisfaction as I topped out onto the ledge.
Months of hard work and commitment had paid off and the best part was how it always felt like a fun process because of the unique set of moves. In the end I decided to name the route «Hafgúfa» which is a colossal sea monster from Norse mythology. It was said to be so giant that it would be confused with an island before it gaped swallowing whole ships.
