Italian Climbers Shine: Claudia Ghisolfi and Laura Rogora Send Hard Routes
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Italian climbers Claudia Ghisolfi and Laura Rogora have made headlines with their recent achievements in sport climbing, pushing the boundaries of their already impressive resumes.
Claudia Ghisolfi Sends Le côté obscur 5.14c in Gorges du Loup
Just two weeks after ticking TTT, her second 5.14d, Claudia Ghisolfi has added another stellar ascent to her record with Le côté obscur 5.14c in Gorges du Loup, France. Reflecting on the climb, she shared, “For me, the hardest part is the first chain of 8c. I fell in the move with the pockets. When I finally managed to do that move, I clipped the 8c's chain and then I kept climbing and clipped the 8c+'s chain.”
Ghisolfi detailed her process, noting, “I tried this route at the beginning of June because the sector Déversé (where TTT is) was wet. Then the competition season started. I came back to Gorges du Loup at the end of July, but I didn’t go to Jurassic Park because Déversé was dry, so I preferred to try TTT and focus 100% on it. After sending TTT with my boyfriend Alessio Voghera, I came back to try the 8c+, and it took me a few tries to send it!” Her dedication and strategic approach underscore her rapid progression in the sport.
Laura Rogora’s Remarkable Day at Gole del Melfa
Meanwhile, Laura Rogora, the 25-year-old Italian climbing phenom, had an extraordinary day at Gole del Melfa. She onsighted Leoni alfa 5.14b, made the first ascent of L’Ultimo Ruggito 5.14d on her second attempt, and capped the day by climbing Lo squalo di Macerata L2 5.14b. With four previous 5.14b onsights and one 5.14c under her belt, Rogora is now considered a contender for the third-best onsight track record globally, trailing only Adam Ondra and Alex Megos.
Describing her time in Rome, Rogora said, “I was in Rome for a few days, and I took the opportunity to go and try some new lines that have been born in recent years. L’Ultimo Ruggito was a project bolted by Roberto Limetta Podii, which is the direct exit of Leoni alfa. Before trying the project, I did an onsight try on Leoni alfa, and it all went smoothly up the chain. I then took a try to see the movements of the direct exit, which is a really fantastic line. After a first part of physical resistance on tufas and blobs, it starts 10 meters at crimps with not really hard moves but very sustained where you risk falling until the chain. To end the day, I climbed Lo squalo di Macerata, which has a first 8b chain, then a boulder, and then joins the exit of Leoni alfa.”
Rogora also shared insights on a new project at La Cueva, guided by Limetta: “Yesterday, Limetta took me to La Cueva to try another new project there. The last boulder is maybe too hard for me, but if any strong climber is looking for some new hard lines, it is definitely a good candidate. Moreover, there are a lot of hard and beautiful lines around Rome which I freed in the past years and are still waiting for a first repetition. Since I have very particular characteristics and I find it hard to give an objective grade, I would be glad to know what other people think about them.”
A Bright Future for Italian Climbing
Both Ghisolfi and Rogora continue to elevate Italian climbing on the global stage. Their recent sends highlight not only their physical prowess but also their ability to tackle complex routes with precision and determination. As they continue to explore new projects and inspire the climbing community, the sport’s future in Italy looks brighter than ever.