Freerider on El Capitan: The Ultimate Yosemite Free Climb

Few routes in the climbing world command as much respect, or fascination, as Freerider on El Capitan. Rising nearly 3,000 feet up the southwest face of Yosemite’s most iconic wall, this legendary line represents the pinnacle of free climbing: an elegant sequence of cracks, slabs, and corners demanding mastery, endurance, and mental grit.

The Route That Defined a Generation

First freed in 1998 by the Huber brothers, Freerider was a visionary variation of the historic Salathé Wall. By linking slightly easier sequences around the Salathé Headwall, they opened the door for a truly free climbable El Cap route at a (relatively) attainable grade of VI 5.13a (or 5.12d via variation). The line quickly became the benchmark for big wall free climbing, a modern rite of passage for elite trad climbers.

Then came Alex Honnold. His 2017 free solo of Freerider, without a rope, in under four hours—catapulted the route into global consciousness. His precision, preparation, and psychological control made history, immortalized in the Oscar-winning film Free Solo.

Since then, figures like Steph Davis, the first woman to free the route, and Barbara “Babsi” Zangerl, who made the first flash ascent of El Capitan via Freerider, have continued to push its legacy forward.

Breaking Down the Climb

The Freeblast

The journey begins with ten technical pitches of slabs and thin cracks known as the Freeblast (5.7–5.11c). This section tests balance, trust in friction, and nerve, depositing climbers at Mammoth Terraces and Heart Ledges, classic Yosemite bivy zones.

Heart Ledges to El Cap Spire

Above, the real adventure begins: the airy Hollow Flake (5.11d) with its infamous downclimb, the cavernous Ear, and the 200-foot Monster Offwidth, a brutal squeeze that has humbled many. Climbers often bivy here, at El Cap Spire or The Alcove, before tackling the upper cruxes.

The Cruxes and Headwall

Two options define the upper testpieces. The Boulder Problem (5.13a/V7) offers short, technical face moves capped by a dynamic lunge. The alternative, the Teflon Corner (5.12d), demands insecure stemming and precision on slick granite.

Higher still, the Enduro Corners (5.12b) and the Scotty Burke Offwidth (5.11d) provide sustained, pumpy challenges right to the summit.

Essential Gear and Logistics

A full trad rack, doubles or triples of cams to #4 and big pieces (#5–#7) for the wide crack, is standard. Offset nuts, slings, and alpine draws help manage the meandering line. Teams haul a second rope and haulbag with food, water, and bivy gear, often planning a 3–5 day ascent.

Natural bivy ledges like Mammoth Terraces, The Alcove, and The Block provide rest spots, though portaledges are sometimes used for flexibility or comfort. Climbers must carry wag bags (mandatory in Yosemite) and pack out all waste.

Descent is typically via the East Ledges, requiring several rappels and scrambling.

Training for the Big Stone

Success on Freerider demands much more than strength, it requires a deep well of skills. Climbers should be comfortable leading solid 5.12 trad, have experience on multi-day big walls, and possess refined techniques across slab, crack, chimney, and offwidth terrain.

Preparation often includes:

Physical training: Endurance, finger strength, and offwidth power.

Mental training: Focus, composure, and fear management.

Systems practice: Hauling, anchor building, and bivy efficiency.

Many aspirants hone their craft on routes like Astroman, The Rostrum, or Moonlight Buttress before tackling El Capitan.

Climbing Ethically and Responsibly

Freerider exists in one of the world’s most precious climbing environments. Practicing Leave No Trace ethics is mandatory: pack out all trash and waste, minimize chalk marks, and respect other climbers by communicating clearly on crowded walls. Yosemite’s Climber’s Credo—respect the rock, the community, and the park—is the foundation of sustainable big wall climbing.

The Bigger Picture

Attempting Freerider is more than a test of physical ability, it’s a journey in preparation, partnership, and perspective. Each step, from training and logistics to the final moves on the summit, cultivates self-reliance, adaptability, and respect for the vertical world.

Whether you send every pitch free or simply battle upward, Freerider offers an education like no other. Its granite lessons, on skill, humility, and persistence, resonate far beyond Yosemite Valley.

In short: Freerider is not just a route, it’s a rite of passage, a mirror for every climber’s limits, and a timeless adventure etched into the face of El Capitan itself.