"Chris bolted it a few years ago. Ground-up, and in some places I’m still wondering how!" These are the words Slovenia’s Klemen Bečan in 2016 used to describe the new 250-metre project he has been asked to work on together with America’s Chris Sharma, who bolted the unrelenting line up the spectacular Congost de Mont-Rebei Gorge in Catalonia, Spain.

However, the local ethics say that routes have to be bolted ground-up without removable bolts, only off direct aid, but Sharma used removable bolts. Desnivel shared Sharma's story on their website, which we've summarised - full story here. Watch Sharma projecting it below.

The project stalled for years until late 2024, when Sharma returned to find his route vandalized—six pitches of difficult climbing, stripped of bolts by an anonymous party. After initial frustration, he sought dialogue with local climbers to understand their concerns and find common ground. This led to a consensus document, signed by around 40 climbers, published last summer.

Adhering to the agreement, Sharma reopened the route from below, installing protection while climbing, using nails or floating anchors when needed, and avoiding removable bolts. “I wanted to honor the community’s agreement and resolve this respectfully to prevent further conflict,” Sharma said. “My goal isn’t to divide but to unify the climbing community.”

As a prominent figure, Sharma emphasizes shared values like camaraderie and responsibility. While identifying with purist climbing ethics, he disagrees with the anonymous sabotage. Over seven days between August and September, he free-climbed and drilled bolts by hand, often in precarious positions, balancing on holds or using minimal aid (A0 or A1) for safety. “It was exhausting, gripping a hold with one hand, drilling with the other,” he shared. “It was a learning experience.”

With prior knowledge of the route from 14 years ago, reopening was easier despite the challenges. Sharma calls for respect for others’ efforts, noting inconsistencies in how his route was judged compared to others, like Pelut’s The Last Bastion, which crosses his. “I’ve tried to do things right and hope this doesn’t happen again,” he said. “Polarization isn’t constructive.”

Sharma’s experience draws from Yosemite’s trad climbing ethos, advocating for understanding over conflict. A video documents his effort, prioritizing the climb over polished footage. The route, potentially named Total Hardcore, is among Europe’s toughest, with a 5.15a first pitch and five more pitches graded around 5.14+. Linking them in a single day is his next goal.

Expressing gratitude to the community for their openness, Sharma seeks only to climb his route in peace, hoping to move forward without further dispute.

Total Hardcore in 2016

Sharma Re-Bolting