Big Sends by Mary Eden, Sasha DiGiulian, Ryuichi Murai and More

Big Sends by Mary Eden, Sasha DiGiulian, Ryuichi Murai and More

V17 power to desert offwidth madness, here are some big climbing stories from the past little bit.

Mary Eden Sends Century Crack 5.14 Trad

Mary Eden delivered one of the most impressive traditional climbing performances of the year with her ascent of Century Crack, the world-famous horror-show offwidth in Utah’s White Rim. Known for devouring skin, strength, and spirits, the crack is a brutal testpiece requiring stacked fists, arm bars, body-scumming, and world-class mental resilience. Eden powered through the route’s full suite of wide-crack misery and topped out with a composure that only a true offwidth specialist can muster. Her send stands as one of the most notable trad accomplishments of the season.

Ryuichi Murai Sends Return of the Sleepwalker (9A / V17)

Ryuichi Murai’s ascent of Return of the Sleepwalker stands as one of the week’s defining moments. The notoriously tension-heavy Las Vegas testpiece has only seen a handful of successful ascents, and Murai’s was executed with trademark precision and almost eerie calm. It’s a benchmark climb repeating a benchmark problem and another reminder that he remains a world leader in cutting-edge bouldering.

Sam Weir Does Classic V15

Sam Weir has repeated Dave Graham’s From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico, adding the classic to an already huge two-year run that includes four 8C+ ascents—all achieved while working full time in the nuclear field and climbing without sponsorship. He first tried the boulder in 2019 and returned last week, finally sending it after dialing in Daniel Woods’ heel-hook beta and finding the climb perfectly suited to his style. Weir says training on a 53-degree board in a rented warehouse, combined with a structured weekly routine and easy access to Ticino through a close friend, has been key to maintaining outdoor shape. With progress going well on Arrival of the Birds (9A), he hopes to stay healthy, keep driving the 4.5 hours to Chironico, and capitalize on this strong phase while he’s “still young enough.”

Sasha DiGiulian Climbs Platinum Wall

Sasha DiGiulian has become the first woman to send the full 39-pitch Platinum Wall 5.13d on El Capitan, completing the 914m route over a grueling 23-day push that included nine storm-bound days trapped on a portaledge in heavy rain, snow, and violent winds. Her send marks the culmination of a three-season effort and the first female free ascent of the line, which was originally established by Rob Miller and partners but only freed in full in 2017. Texting from the summit with swollen, taped fingertips, DiGiulian wrote, “It’s the proudest climb of my career. I can’t believe it!” Miller praised the achievement, saying he was thrilled to see her succeed on a route that took years to bring from “concept to reality.”

Filip Schenk Sends Erebor (9b / 5.15b)

Filip Schenk clipped chains on the Arco testpiece Erebor, one of Italy’s hardest and most respected routes. Defined by its savage crux and relentless difficulty, the line demands competition-level accuracy mixed with the composure of a seasoned outdoor climber. Schenk delivered both, adding a major 5.15b to his résumé and signaling his growing presence among the world’s strongest sport climbers.

Bryce Viola Claims an 8C / V15 First Ascent

Bryce Viola announced a major first ascent with an 8C (V15) addition in a still-developing zone. The line features razorblade edges, body-compression tension, and a committing exit sequence that rewards both perfect microbeta and full conviction. Viola described the boulder as one of the most complete and rewarding climbs he has established, a strong statement from a climber known for precision-focused testpieces.

Lucy Mitchell Climbs Her Hardest

Lucy Mitchell has sent José Pine le Gardien dans la Cave (8c+, 5.14c) in Lourmarin, adding a powerful new ascent to her already impressive list of five 5.14b routes. After trying the line last year and struggling to link the upper section, she returned this season with no expectations and found the moves feeling noticeably easier despite lingering doubts about her fitness. A breakthrough came when she finally pieced together the top section cleanly, boosted by watching Antoine Marie float the route as a warm-down and realizing the send was truly within reach. On the following day, she pushed through the cave, held her composure to the anchors, and completed what she describes as an incredible route with equally incredible climbing.

Miles Perry Sends Grand Illusion (8C+ / V16)

Miles Perry capped the week with an ascent of the legendary Grand Illusion, a benchmark V16 known for its finger-lacerating underclings and brutally technical movement. The climb is unforgiving from move one, demanding immaculate beta and unwavering focus. Perry’s send marks the strongest climb of his career and solidifies his status among the leading boulderers in the United States.

 

 

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