Best Bouldering Film You'll See This Month! V15 in Sweden!

Storhy by Paul-Martin Luc of his new V15 in Sweden. We love the Point Break quote at the start of the film! 

This video tells the full story behind my ascent of my greatest climbing achievement so far.

It started in summer 2023. First attempts on Luftig Kö Till Nålens Öga (8B imo, FA Erik Bäcklin). In autumn I managed to tick it. It took around 4 sessions. In winter, another 7 sessions, I completed the sit start Den Nattliga Havsfärden (8B+/C imo, FA Carl Nilsask).

But the real goal was always the full low start from Tvekampen (8A) into Nålens Öga. The line I later called öga för öga.

Spring 2024 was special. Adam Ondra came to visit. He warmed up on Boko (8B), nearly flashing it, and then flashed Luftig Kö Till Nålens Öga after we went through all the moves together. Beforehand, we talked about whether Adam should try to flash the 8B or Den Nattliga Havsfärden. Harald Bohlin suggested Den Nattliga Havsfärden and I suggested to go for Luftig Kö Till Nålens Öga. He played it safe and went for the 8B. One of the wildest flashes Sweden has ever seen. The psyche that day was unreal. Gustaf Kamf and Peter Mårdklint both climbed their personal bests with 8A+. Conditions and the vibe were just perfect. I had taken only one rest day after coming very close to sending the project 2 days before. But I just could not resist joining the party that day. Before his flash I tried to repeat the 8B for warm up and show the beta. I partially tore my hamstring in that go. If you listen carfully you can hear it. Despite the injury I still tried the project once more while the adrenaline was still compensating the pain. But I fell at the pebble crux once more and made the injury worse. I knew the risk but still had to do it. Stupid ofc.

After the flash Adam tried Den Nattliga Havsfärden and kept falling at the crux as the session volume added up. He experimented with new beta, even trying to thumb-catch the pebble. In the end he left for Flatanger with one of the hardest flashes ever done in Sweden in his pocket and we were just stunned by what had happened that day. 

For me the injury meant a long recovery. After one and a half years my hamstring was finally fully healed. (Martin Keller and me texted a bit about rehab since he injured his hamstring around the same time. Thanks for that again!)  I came back stronger than ever and started getting closer again. Around 10 sessions in and four days before the send I fell on the final move.

On February 14th 2026 Alex and I drove back. On the fourth go from the bottom I fell in the last easy sequence. That one hurt. We were already close to packing up and leaving. After a long walk in the forest and a message from my wife telling me to focus and give it one more try, I went back in. Two more falls in the Tvekampen crux move followed. It felt like the power was gone.

Then on the seventh attempt it happened. I topped out. Alex and I could barely believe it.

What a journey. What a fight. I will miss this project. But I am excited to finally move on to the other open lines waiting in the region.

About the grade: When I started this journey 8A+ was my hardest boulder. After only a few sessions I climbed Luftig kö till Nålens Öga and downgraded it to 8B for myself. Roof climbing and heel hooks suit me well. Seven sessions later I climbed Nattliga Havsfärden. For me it felt more like 8B+ than 8C.

Erik Bäcklin and Carl Nilsask are pioneers of Swedish bouldering, but most of their development happened in Kjugekull, which has fewer physical roof problems. Nålens Öga and Havsfärden are steep, powerful and heel hook intensive. That context matters in my opinion.

To add a proper, maybe even hard 8C to my ticklist, the logical step was to link the hard part of Tvekampen into Nålens Öga.

If Havsfärden is 8B+, then Öga för Öga is 8C for me.

If Havsfärden is a solid 8C, then the full line could be a soft 8C+.

Let us be realistic... I am a weekend warrior, not Ondra.

When I talked to Adam about the grade of Den Nattliga Havsfärden he said, “If that is 8B+, then it is the hardest 8B+ in the world.” He also said the boulder really suits his style. So maybe 8B+/8C is fair.

Either way this ascent means more to me than a number.