All Your Climbing News, June 26, 2025
Cameron Hörst recently sent Lion’s Share (5.14d) at Wolf Point, Wyoming, sharing his excitement on 8a.nu: "Mojos coming back. Stellar route." First ascended in 2018 by BJ Tilden, the route was repeated this year by Jonathan Siegrist and Tyler Thompson.
Yosemite has seen another flurry of activity over the past few months, with climbers from around the globe flocking to El Capitan to test their skills. Sachi Amma, a 5.15 climber and World Cup champion, ticked off his first El Cap route by climbing Lurking Fear alongside legendary climber Yuji Hirayama. Pietro Vidi followed with the second free ascent of Lurking Fear, a 19-pitch 5.13c, 25 years after Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden made the first free ascent.
In May, Canadian climber Ethan Morf became the youngest person to free climb El Capitan in a day, completing Freerider. Reflecting on his achievement, he shared: “Turned out I was ready—it went down, but not without a fight. I screamed my way through the upper pitches—never fought so hard in my life.”
Also this month, Jordan Cannon and Michael Vaill completed The Nose, Salathe Wall, and Lurking Fear in a single day. Meanwhile, Kate Kelleghan and Laura Pineau climbed the Yosemite Triple in under 24 hours.
In a new video, Noah Beek takes on two sport routes at Lakit on gear: Air Mail (5.12) and Redneck Rampage (5.13c). The video, which honors his late friend Travis Foster, is filmed by Brandon Keller, Drew Leiterman, Alex Brassard, and Cody Sugihara.
New 65-metre 5.14d
Hugo Parmentier, currently midway through a year-long road trip with his girlfriend, has completed the first ascent of Générations Futures 5.14d in Céüse. It took him about 20 days of effort, excluding a couple of days spent brushing the rock, and although he believes the grade could be 5.15a, the send itself felt relatively effortless.
From Parmentier: I’ve just returned from Céüse, where I managed to climb the first ascent of Générations Futures. It’s definitely the most beautiful pitch I’ve ever done. It’s on par with routes like Tom et je Ris and the arête pitch of Histoire sans fin—those types of climbs that you dream about. To put up a first ascent at Céüse, at this grade and with this level of quality… as a kid, I wouldn’t even have dared to imagine something like this. The route is over 60 meters long and climbs a massive, stunning blue overhang on Nitshapa.
It’s the quintessential King/Queen Line—perfect moves, a striking line, top-tier rock quality, a wide variety of holds, and long runouts. On top of that, the logistics were complicated—rope drag, distance from the classic sectors, long approach… it was a real challenge. And all of this was set on what I consider the most beautiful cliff in the world. The route was bolted by the talented climber Jibé Jourjon from Chambéry in 2021. I saw a photo of the wall he posted on Instagram, and I was immediately hooked. At the time, I was focusing on competitions, so it took me a few years to find the time—and the courage—to give it a shot.
But when Tess and I took a sabbatical year, it felt like the perfect moment to commit. The route had never been climbed before, apart from a few test shots by Jibé after bolting it. So, I got to experience the entire first ascent process, from start to finish. Despite the rock being excellent, I spent a lot of time brushing off lichen that had settled on the blue walls, washed by rain. I must’ve put in two full Fazaa sessions just on that. The whole process was demanding—two trips cut short by heavy rain, one period of illness, and a real struggle on my part. But there were also some truly unforgettable moments up there. With every attempt, I kept reminding myself how fortunate I was to be climbing this line.
Even now, I haven’t fully processed it. 23 years of climbing, and to experience something like this… it still feels surreal. I’m incredibly grateful to Tess for agreeing to spend time at this sector, splitting our days between Demi Lune for her attempts on L’Académicien des Crépis and Nitshapa for Générations Futures. She also provided endless belays throughout. Big thanks as well to Jérôme Tanon and Jan Novak for coming out to capture the beauty of this insane line. Attach Search
