Adam Ondra Makes Hardest Trad Flash Ever
Share
Last month, Adam Ondra flashed Lexicon E11 7a at Pavey Ark, U.K., a dangerous and challenging route first climbed by Neil Gresham in September 2021 after a year of preparation. Gresham described Lexicon as a “[5.14a] with an 80-foot fall risk from the final crux and a likely hard impact.” Steve McClure claimed the second ascent weeks after Gresham, followed by Dave McLeod in March 2022, with Mat Wright and James Pearson also repeating it later that year. Ondra’s ascent is likely the sixth. Mammut released a 22-minute film documenting his climb, available to watch below.
Ondra shared on Instagram, “It was a special day in the UK with Neil Gresham, who belayed responsibly. I was scared, pushed hard, my heart raced, but I reached the final ledge without taking the massive fall.” Ondra detailed his ethical approach to the flash: “I studied all available videos, focusing on Gresham’s footage. Neil rappelled and prepped the route for me, chalking holds. I rappelled 8 meters right of Lexicon along Astra, where Neil explained gear placement and moves for the upper headwall. I warmed up on a fingerboard at the top ledge, then was lowered to the crux of Sixpence E6, avoiding looking at Lexicon’s holds. I climbed Sixpence’s 3-meter crux, stopping short of Lexicon’s final slot, then swung right to practice Magical Thinking’s final moves twice. After racking up, I speed-rappelled down Lexicon, facing the lake to avoid seeing holds, focused briefly, and climbed.”