54-Year-Old Does V15 (8C) FA
Share
At 54 years old, Akira Waku, a climber who took up the sport at the age of 35 with no prior athletic background, has achieved a remarkable feat by completing Dendrobium (8C/V15) in Shiobara, Japan, after 25 days of dedicated effort. This ascent marks a significant milestone in Waku’s climbing journey, as Dendrobium is not a standalone boulder problem but a new link-up that creatively combines sections of existing routes: Hydra, the reverse sequence of UMA, and the finishing moves of Kalamba.
The result is a unique and challenging line that showcases both technical prowess and visionary route-setting. Waku’s journey to this accomplishment began six years ago, shortly after he successfully climbed Hydrangea (8C/V15), another high-level boulder problem. Inspired by that success, he turned his attention to Dendrobium, quickly deciphering its individual moves in just six days of effort. However, linking these moves into a continuous sequence proved far more elusive. Despite persistent attempts, Waku faced repeated setbacks, and the project remained unfinished—until now.
His perseverance over 25 days of projecting culminated in a triumphant send, a testament to his relentless determination and growth as a climber. While Dendrobium incorporates segments of pre-existing routes, Waku hesitates to claim it as a "pure first ascent." Instead, he refers to it as a "first climb," acknowledging that the line, which includes the reverse sequence of UMA, had not been climbed in this specific configuration before. This distinction reflects Waku’s humility and respect for the climbing community’s conventions, while still celebrating the novelty of his achievement. In assessing the difficulty of Dendrobium, Waku proposes a grade of V15 (8C), noting that it surpasses the challenge of UMA (V14/8B+).
He also offers a personal comparison to other boulder problems he has climbed, such as Babel and Barth, suggesting that Dendrobium feels slightly easier than those but still firmly in the V15 range. This nuanced evaluation underscores his deep understanding of grading and his ability to contextualize his accomplishments within the broader spectrum of high-end bouldering. Waku’s achievement is all the more inspiring given his age and unconventional entry into the sport.
Starting at 35 with no athletic foundation, he has defied expectations, proving that passion and persistence can overcome traditional barriers in climbing. “Even at over 54 years old, I can still push my limits,” Waku shared. “This climb has fueled my motivation and given me new goals to pursue.”
His story serves as an inspiration to climbers of all ages, demonstrating that the pursuit of excellence in bouldering is not confined by age or prior experience. Dendrobium stands as both a personal triumph for Waku and a contribution to the climbing community, offering a fresh challenge for others to attempt. His innovative link-up and unwavering commitment highlight the evolving nature of bouldering, where creativity and determination continue to push the boundaries of what’s possible.