Free Solo Climbing Legend Michael Reardon
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Years have passed since Michael Reardon, a legendary free-solo climber was tragically swept out to sea by a rogue wave off Valentia Island, Ireland. His death was a big loss to the climbing community, robbing the world of one of its most daring and unique athletes. More than a tragic accident, it marked the passing of a figure whose personality and climbing feats left an indelible mark on those who knew him.
Reardon was known for his wild energy, humor, and unapologetic authenticity. A former heavy-metal band frontman turned rock climber, he often climbed in jeans and a T-shirt, joking and pushing boundaries along the way. His loud and irreverent personality made him polarizing, yet deeply beloved. To those who knew him, Michael Reardon was unapologetically himself, a man who lived life on his own terms.

On the rock, Reardon’s performances were extraordinary. Over the years, he completed ropeless solo climbs up to 900 feet high, many onsight, some first ascents. Among his most famous climbs were Romantic Warrior, a nearly 1,000-foot 5.12b route in California, and Shikata Ga Nai, an 800-foot arête solo. His feats are still considered benchmarks in the climbing world, with some believed unlikely to be matched.
Tragically, Reardon’s death came not from a climbing accident, but from nature itself. After descending a sea cliff on Valentia Island, he stood just feet above the Atlantic Ocean when a rogue wave struck. The current carried him away before rescuers could save him. His body was never recovered, leaving a haunting reminder of the unpredictability of life, even for someone who faced extreme risks daily. Here's a photo by Jim Thornburg of Reardon free soloing Hole Patrol 5.12b at Malibu Creek:

Despite his untimely passing, Reardon’s life is celebrated as one fully lived. His energy, passion, and fearlessness continue to inspire climbers and adventurers worldwide. At Valentia Island, a plaque reading “An solas geal lonrach” (“bright, shining light”) commemorates him, reflecting the spirit that defined his life and career.
Reardon Tribute
Michael Reardon – Iconic Climbs & Achievements
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Equinox (5.12c/d) & EBGBs (5.10d) – Joshua Tree National Park, CA
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1,000 individual solos in 30 days & 100 first ascent solos up to 5.12 – Joshua Tree National Park, CA
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Ghetto Blaster (5.13b) & Urban Struggle (5.12b) – Malibu Creek, CA
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The Pirate (5.12d) – Suicide Rock, Idyllwild, CA
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Outrage (5.13a, onsight solo) – Boney Bluffs, Santa Monica Mountains, CA
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Romantic Warrior (V 5.12b, onsight solo) – California
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Sea of Tranquility (V 5.11d, A0) & Shikata Ga Nai (V 5.12, first ascent solo) – The Needles, CA
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214 routes onsight solo in England, including Neon Dust (5.13b/c)
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240 routes onsight solo in Ireland, including Rainy Days (5.12+, first ascent) – Ailladie, County Clare
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Palisade Traverse (VI 5.9, first solo) – Sierra Mountain Range: completed in 22 hours (previous ascent took 12 days)